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When you remodel a kitchen, there are literally dozens of decisions to make. But none seems as intimidating or fraught with peril as choosing countertops.

At first, this doesn't seem to make much sense. There are at least as many options for appliances and cabinets, their costs are often higher, and their features are just as varied and complex. But appliances can be swapped out easily, and once you get a handle on the material choices and finish options for cabinets, that decision proves to be a straightforward one.

Countertops are different, though - large surfaces make one of the biggest style statements in a kitchen. Whether you're preparing a holiday meal for family or simply enjoying your morning coffee and the newspaper, your connection with your countertops is a direct one.

From their color and clean ability to the tactile sensations on your fingertips, they involve nuances that can make you love 'em or hate 'em.

Complicating matters further is that at this stage of countertop evolution, there's hardly a bad one in the bunch. Crazy experiments with papier-mache or moose pelts might have emerged somewhere along the way, but by now the survivors have all been thoroughly vetted, and newcomers have to run the marketplace gauntlet before showrooms with pitch them as the latest and greatest.

Standbys such as a marble slabs, ceramic tile, hardwood and high-pressure laminates, while still plentiful and worthy, now share space with honed granite, stainless steel, engineered quartz, concrete, and Corian solid-surface materials, as well as a handful of other high-tech engineered materials.

Aside from the obvious benefit of having more options, this steadily growing field has yielded more competitive pricing and happens to dovetail nicely with an increasingly popular design trend - using more than one countertop material in the same kitchen.

It doesn't really matter if you can't narrow you choice to a single favorite. You can simply pick two or three that give you the looks and features you want.

If your kitchen is big enough to have specialized work zones such as a banking center or a stir-fry station, the countertops can be selected accordingly. A laminated maple block is flour-friendly and great for working bread dough, while stainless steel is a tough and practical choice for the hot oils used in wok cooking.

Newer generations of high-pressure laminates, sold under brands such as Formica, NevaMar, Wilsonart and others, can mimic the most exotic natural materials or offer a unique contemporary look that doesn't pretend to be anything else. Laminates still represent one of the most affordable choices in countertops.

Even the options for "natural" materials aren't as simple as they used to be. Polished-granite slabs have been a favorite of homeowners for at least a decade now, but honed varieties - with a matte rather than a gloss finish - have an understated look that often works better with traditional styles.

The style of tone of your kitchen will likely influence some of the decisions you make about countertops. Virtually all the mainstream options are heat- and stain-resistant, and most will scratch from direct knife cuts but otherwise fare well in use. (One solution: Make the use of cutting boards a habit.)

But not all can pull off a particular period or historical look in a vintage home, or create a contemporary industrial flavor for a new urban loft.

Aiming for the simple charm of a centuries-old European farmhouse? Include a Carrara marble look with its wispy gray streaks and creamy white tones. Or try natural soapstone. Sure, you'll get some stains or scuffs occasionally, but spotless perfection is overrated, especially when it comes to a kitchen's emotional appeal. Of course there's always Corian's almost 100% matches to these materials. They provide the look without the maintenance hassles.

Mixing three countertop materials can create a really interesting look, but be sure to establish a hierarchy so they aren't competing for attention. Pick one to be clearly dominant in volume and effect, then use the others more sparingly to define separate zones or work stations.

This not only makes more aesthetic sense, it might help your budget. Let the more affordable choices cover the biggest areas, and splurge for the high-end goods on an island or work station that won't need as much square footage.

Basic laminate countertops comprise the entry price point at about $20 to $30 per square foot installed. Premium granite, engineered quartz, and solid-surfacing materials represent the higher end, ranging from $75 to about $200 per square foot installed. The best value of all materials for design impact, ease to maintain, and cost is Dupont's Corian. Keep in mind that with all of these materials that you pay for fabrication time as well as raw materials, so complex custom work will always cost more.

Even if you don't choose to mix materials, try to vary countertop heights so work zones accommodate different activities as needed when sitting or standing.